Squalane: A Stable, Lightweight Emollient for Skincare and Cosmetics

2025-09-01 14:03

Technical Introduction

Squalane is a hydrogenated derivative of squalene, a natural lipid found in human sebum, shark liver oil, and various plants such as olive, sugarcane, and amaranth. Unlike squalene (which is unstable and prone to oxidation), squalane is fully saturated, making it oxidation-resistant, shelf-stable, and highly skin-compatible.

  • INCI Name: Squalane

  • Chemical Formula: C₃₀H₆₂

  • Molecular Weight: ~422.81 g/mol

  • Source: Plant-derived (sustainable sugarcane, olive, amaranth) or animal-derived (shark liver, now less common due to ethical and sustainability concerns)

  • Appearance: Clear, odorless, colorless liquid

  • Texture: Lightweight, non-greasy oil

  • Solubility: Soluble in oils, fats, and hydrocarbons; insoluble in water


Applications

1. Cosmetics & Skincare

  • Moisturizers & Creams: Provides deep hydration without heaviness

  • Facial Oils & Serums: Mimics skin’s natural lipids, strengthens barrier

  • Anti-aging Formulations: Protects against oxidative damage and improves elasticity

  • Haircare: Adds shine, reduces frizz, prevents breakage

  • Makeup Products: Used in lipsticks, foundations, and primers for smooth application

2. Pharmaceuticals & Dermatology

  • Used as a carrier oil for active ingredients in topical treatments

  • Enhances skin penetration of certain drugs

  • Applied in wound healing ointments due to skin-regenerative effects

3. Food & Nutraceuticals (limited use)

  • Sometimes included in dietary supplements as a source of skin-supportive lipids

  • Rare in modern food applications compared to cosmetic use


✅ Advantages

  • Highly stable compared to natural squalene

  • Biocompatible – mimics natural skin lipids

  • Non-comedogenic – does not clog pores

  • Lightweight & fast-absorbing – ideal for oily and sensitive skin

  • Antioxidant protection – resists lipid peroxidation

  • Versatile – works in emulsions, serums, oils, and sprays

  • Vegan-friendly options available (sugarcane & olive-derived)


⚙️ Technical Specifications (Typical Cosmetic-Grade Squalane)

ParameterSpecification
AppearanceClear, odorless liquid
Purity≥ 98%
Density (20°C)0.808 – 0.818 g/mL
Refractive Index (20°C)1.450 – 1.455
Viscosity (25°C)~28–32 cP
Acid Value≤ 0.1 mg KOH/g
Peroxide Value≤ 1.0 meq/kg
Source OptionsPlant-derived (olive, sugarcane, amaranth) or animal-derived
ApplicationsSkincare, cosmetics, dermatological formulations

⚠️ Safety & Regulations

  • Topical Use: Considered safe and non-irritating; widely approved in global cosmetic regulations.

  • Oral Use: Rare; not commonly consumed as a supplement.

  • Sustainability: Plant-based squalane (sugarcane/olive) is preferred for eco-friendly and ethical formulations.

  • Regulatory Approvals:

    • Approved for cosmetic use in US (FDA), EU, Japan, China, and most global markets.


❓ FAQ

Q1: Is squalane better than squalene?
Yes. Squalane is hydrogenated and more stable, meaning it won’t oxidize or spoil like squalene.

Q2: Is squalane suitable for oily or acne-prone skin?
Yes. It is non-comedogenic, lightweight, and fast-absorbing, making it safe even for acne-prone skin.

Q3: Is squalane vegan?
Yes, when sourced from sugarcane or olives. Historically, shark-derived squalane was common, but most modern suppliers use plant-based sources.

Q4: Can squalane be used on hair?
Yes. It improves shine, smoothness, and hydration while reducing frizz.

Q5: How does squalane compare with other oils like jojoba or argan oil?
Squalane is lighter, more stable, and closer to human sebum, making it easier to absorb and less likely to oxidize compared to jojoba or argan oil.

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